⭐ Kite is a free AI-powered coding assistant that will help you code faster and smarter. The Kite plugin integrates with all the top editors and IDEs to give. Though you can’t play any commercial games on this emulator, but you can run homebrew programs and games on it. See Also: Best Xbox Emulators for PC. CubeSX Emulator for Mac and PC. CubeSX is an emulator that supports more than one video game console. It can run games from PlayStation, Nintendo GameCube and Wii.

1. How To Run Wii Games On Mac Free
2. How To Play Wii U Games On Mac

See also: mini

BootMii is a system designed by Team Twiizers to enable complete low-level control of the Wii. It allows the Wii to be controlled mere moments after the On button has been pressed, before any IOS has been loaded and before the NAND filesystem has been read. BootMii can be launched from the Homebrew Channel from the menu that pops up when the home button is pressed.

• 10History

Controls

Architecture

BootMii is comprised by four pieces of software:

• Installer -- This is a simple ELF file which may be run using your favorite method (HBC, Twilight Hack, or any other exploit which can load standard executables). It checks your Wii to make sure it can safely be modified, saves some vital data for disaster recovery, and installs the rest of the components. It is now integrated into the HackMii Installer.
• Loader stub -- This is a small bit of ARM code which is injected into boot2, replacing Nintendo's internal ELF loader. When run, it looks to see if an SD card is inserted. If so, it tries to load and execute /bootmii/armboot.bin instead of boot2. Otherwise, it will fall back to loading boot2.
• mini -- This is a rudimentary replacement for IOS that is best suited for low-level recovery functions. Source code is available under GPLv2 here.
• BootMii (or bootmii-ppc) -- When mini runs, it looks for a file named /bootmii/ppcboot.elf on the SD card. If it exists, mini loads this executable into memory, boots up the Broadway (ppc) and executes that binary in parallel with mini. Source code is available under GPLv2 at (tbd).

Both mini and bootmii-ppc must be present in order to draw a user interface, because the Starlet cannot directly access the Video Interface.

Benefits

BootMii allows anything from Recovery modes (creating a practically unbrickable Wii), to lazy access of the Homebrew Channel. For example, if you have corrupted the System Menu, you can use DOP-Mii to reinstall the System Menu. Unfortunately, all homebrew currently require an IOS, because libogc requires one. However, there is Mini (a homebrew IOS-like software), which can be modified specifically for the program, ie, for better communication to the Linux kernel.

How it works

BootMii is a modified version of boot2, which is loaded by boot1, which is loaded by boot0. boot0 is part of Hollywood and read-only. boot1, although stored on the NAND, is signed by a value in write-once memory and therefore cannot be changed without rendering a console unable to boot. boot2, however, can be modified (with some restrictions). This means it can be hacked, updated, and corrupted. BootMii hijacks the boot process before the normal boot2 is run, optionally allowing code to be run directly from the SD Card. This has many advantages, such as making it very difficult to brick, and slowing Nintendo from blocking homebrew. Unfortunately, the only way we could completely stop Nintendo from blocking homebrew is by patching updates on-the-fly, or somehow preventing overwriting boot2. Along with the System Menu 4.2 update, Nintendo released a new version of boot2 (boot2v4); there is nothing in boot2v4 that prevents BootMii from working, but it will overwrite an existing BootMii installation when it is installed.

Compatibility

BootMii should be compatible with most Wiis released before late 2008. Support for newer Wiis (with reduced functionality) will have to install BootMii as an IOS

For an SD card compatibility list, See SD Card Compatibility List.

Required hardware

BootMii will not require any special hardware. However, special hardware might help accomplish things that BootMii by itself cannot, such as hardware NAND write protection and isolation from the Nintendo software stack. No such hardware exists yet though.

The new boot1

Consoles made after some point in 2008 (no concrete date is known) have a new version of boot1 that patches the vulnerability which allows the console to boot a modified boot2. The Hackmii Installer will detect this situation and refuse to modify boot2(see more at Hackmii). Since boot1 cannot be updated, all consoles already manufactured before this update are safe. About 10% of the consoles that ran the BootMii Checker tool have the new boot1.

Console Keys and keys.bin

Instead of using WiiND, you can retrieve your console keys from the keys.bin file that BootMii v3+ produces when backing up the NAND. To view them, open keys.bin with a hex editor.
Here are the offsets for each key:

For a full description of the purpose of each key, see this writeup on HackMii.

Media

History

v1.4

• Stopped the 'queueing' of the eject button press when confirming dangerous operations
• Fixed integer overflow when calculating SD card free space

Beta 6 (v1.3)

How To Run Wii Games On Mac Free

• Fixed the freeze when using the autoboot feature to load System Menu with a delay of zero.
• The NAND backup no longer crashes when stumbling on uncorrectable pages.
• A couple of fixes to the integrated SD browser.
• The autoboot feature is ignored when launching the IOS version of BootMii.

Beta 5 (v1.2)

• Compatible with more SD cards.
• New font, borrowed from the deceased Twilight Hack.
• The button combination when restoring a NAND backup with only BootMii/IOS was impossible to perform with some pads. It has been changed to the Konami Code.

Beta 4 (v1.1)

• Properly write the keys to nand.bin :
  • This fixes the “NAND dump is from another Wii” issue on restoring beta 3 backups. If you don’t know how to fix those dumps, you have to backup the NAND again. Dumps from all other versions are not affected.

Beta 3 (v1.0)

• Improved the SD card compability
• Increased the backup/restore speed for some SD cards, but decreased it for others :P
• Fix GPIO input for all Wiis
• Wavebird support
• Fixed a silly bug where NAND backups were left as 0 byte files
• Keys are now saved to SD as /bootmii/keys.bin too

Beta 2 (v0.9)

• SD card performance has been improved, decreasing the boot and the NAND backup / restore time
• backupmii accepts fragmented SD cards now, reformatting is not performed anymore. Old NAND dumps are still compatible.
• Introduced the INI variable “BOOTDELAY” to set the timeout for the auto boot feature

Beta 1

• First Public Release

External links

Wouldn't it be great to be able to play Zelda on your laptop? … Obviously! 😄

Between video-game consoles

Being that I'm between travels, apartments, and dedication to a specific game console, I decided to get creative with hardware and catch up on the Legend of Zelda series developed by Nintendo.

There are a few other titles that I'm looking forward to this holiday season when PlayStation 4 goes on sale, such as The Last Of Us and Grand Theft Auto 5… but, even though these are also PlayStation 3 titles, I don't own that console anymore either, so I can't play either of them right now. 😃

The primary reason that I'm going with the PlayStation 4 over the Xbox One is that I've owned the PlayStation 2 and PlayStation 3 previously. — Most of the console games I've played are on the PlayStation platform, and the new consoles have generally enabled playback of each previous consoles' titles through streaming or embedded backwards compatibility.

The only other home (non-portable) gaming console that I've dabbled with longterm is the Nintendo Wii, which I actually camped out for on launch in 2006. 😂 — But, I sold my Wii before I moved in 2011, and then bought a PlayStation 3 in early 2012. Then, I sold that before I moved again in January 2013, and have been consoleless ever since due to traveling.

… So, what's next?

Back to Nintendo? Hmm…

Because I'd owned the Wii before, I had already played:

• The Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess — The initial flagship game of the series for Wii.
• The Legend of Zelda: The Wind Waker — Because this was originally released for Nintendo GameCube, it could also be played on the Wii console due to backwards compatibility.

… A new Zelda game had come out since then, called “The Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword,” and I had been dying to play it.

The fact that I had been able to play a GameCube game on the Wii was a signal that the two were very similar, hardware-wise. — Soon after, I discovered that there's a software emulator that can perfectly emulate both of these Nintendo consoles on most Macs and PCs!

Since my MacBook Pro is fairly new, I'd hoped that it packed enough processing and graphics power to play. — To try, all I needed was a Wii game, a “Wiimote” controller, and a sensor bar.

… But, how was I going to emulate a sensor bar? 😅

Figuring out how to emulate a “sensor bar” for the Wiimote controller(s)

If you have a Nintendo Wii console, you have that wired bar that goes on the top of your TV as a signal to the “Wiimote” controllers of where the TV is. — A friend told me that there are numerous alternatives to this bar, though, such as lighting two candles near your TV (safely! 😅), or even building your own Wii sensor bar using infrared emitter LEDs.

I actually did consider building one myself, but luckily realized that there were a USB-powered replicas on eBay for less than $5 USD shipped. — Radio Shack was unfortunately charging too much for the spare parts to build it on my own (by comparison), and I figured that a manufactured option could potentially be more durable longterm, anyway.

With the sensor bar figured out, I ordered the rest of the supplies through Amazon Prime:

• Nintendo Wii Remote Plus — The “Plus” variant is required to play Skyward Sword.
• Nintendo Nunchuk Controller — You'll also need this to control the character.

… Best perk of buying official Nintendo gear? It always ships with brand-new batteries in the box. That's one thing you won't need to put on your shopping list, for now! 🔋👍🏻

Setup + configuration

After a few days, the supplies had arrived, and it was time to test!

I first downloaded the Dolphin Emulator for Nintendo Wii/GameCube from its official website. — Be careful about other websites that may be offering [perhaps outdated] versions of the software that may come bundled with malware! 😱

While you're on their official site, be sure to check out their game compatibility list and FAQ to make sure that your computer and setup is compatible with Dolphin.

Getting the Wiimote to pair over Bluetooth with my Mac was a bit tricky. — According to the support forums, this latest (at the time of writing) model of the Wiimote controller “RVL-CNT-01-TR” for the newer Wii U console doesn't connect to Macs with the old “hold the 1 and 2 buttons and pair it” method of models prior.

The correct way to connect this controller to your computer is not by connecting the device using the Bluetooth menu on your Mac, as you'd connect any other Bluetooth device. — Instead, follow these steps:

1. Open the Dolphin Emulator on your Mac.
2. Go to its “Tools” menu.
3. Choose “Real Wiimote” for Wiimote 1 controller (not “Emulated Wiimote”)
4. Click the “Refresh” button under the “Real Wiimotes” section. Then, immediately press the red “Sync” button on the back of the Wiimote!

… If you're successful, the controller will stop flashing and you'll feel it vibrate briefly to indicate a successful pairing. — It may even appear as being “connected” in your Mac's Bluetooth menu, as shown below:

… Even if the controller is listed in your Mac's Bluetooth menu, though, you'll still need to repeat the steps above to reinitiate the connection whenever you reconnect it, as experienced at this time of writing. 😅

“Sensor Bar” alternatives

Unfortunately, by the time the controllers and game had arrived, the sensor bar that I'd ordered still hadn't! — However, infrared light is emitted elsewhere (such as from the candles I mentioned before 🕯), so I temporarily just used a bright floor lamp to calibrate the Wiimote when first lauching the game. 😅

Since this game supports (and requires) Wii Motion Plus, you don't really need the sensor bar once it has calibrated. I occasionally would need to reset it if it became off-target while playing, but I could do so in the “Pause” menu to not adversely affect gameplay. — UPDATE (2013/07/27): I eventually just used a disposable lighter 🔥 to emulate the sensor bar briefly when recalibating the Wiimote:

Anyway, moving on… 😅

Launching game(s)

Actually running games in the Dolphin Emulator is easy through options in the software's menus:

1. 📂 Open “disk images” of any game discs that you've already created yourself.
2. 📀 Or, insert an actual Wii game disc into your computer's CD/DVD drive.

Once the game is running, you should press “Command (⌘) + 1” on your keyboard to enable the first controller, and then “Command(⌘) + F” to make the game fullscreen.

While Wii games are simple to launch, I imagine that there may be a different process for GameCube games given that its discs are physically much smaller than typical CDs/DVDs and therefore might not be safe to insert into your computer's CD drive, especially if it's slot-loading like the MacBook Pro's drives. — For more information on this, check out Dolphin's FAQs.

Improving performance

While actually running Wii games in Dolphin and getting the controllers connected may be “easy,” getting the games to run properly and be responsive is a bit trickier.

This process can vary from game to game. — For “The Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword”, I found that my frame-rate (before adjusting settings) was initially just 20 FPS! That is not playable or enjoyable, and I began to investigate options to improve the performance.

Dolphin has their own performance guide, but for my particular computer, there were a few things in particular to take into account:

• 4 x CPU cores
• Insane native display resolution for a portable graphics processor to handle (2880×1800)
• The high-end 2013 15-inch MacBook Pro has a discrete GPU for high-performance rendering, alongside the basic Intel GPU that's more power-efficient and generally not used when doing anything intensive. (For this reason, I'm not sure if Dolphin will run well on the 13-inch MacBook Pro or other models with just the Intel GPU.)

… Even with the game running at a super-high display resolution, I actually found that the graphics settings didn't bottleneck Dolphin's performance very much at all on this machine. Instead, it was primarily the CPU that caused performance concerns during emulation!

Recommended settings

I recommend changing the following settings from their defaults for “The Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword” to get decent playback results and less overall CPU usage on a 2013 15-inch MacBook Pro with discrete GPU.

First, go to the “Settings” menu in Dolphin, and select the “Graphics” option:

• In the “General” tab:
  • “OpenGL” for Backend.
  • The largest native option (15-inch Retina display is 2880 x 1800) for Fullscreen resolution.
  • Enable “Hide Mouse Cursor” to prevent distraction.
• In the “Enhancements” tab:
  • “Auto (Window Size)” for Internal resolution, or you may waste system resources doing artificial scaling… especially when switching to an external monitor or TV. 📺
  • “None” for Anti-aliasing since you have a “HiDPI” Retina display.
  • “16x” for Anisotropic filtering. (I did this for optimal visuals, and haven't notice a performance hit, but you could also try reducing this if you're running into issues.)
• In the “Hacks” tab: (This is where things can get interesting…)
  • Enabling “Skip EFB Access from CPU” gave me a huge performance boost, but may cause glitches in some games. (I recommend enabling it unless it causes significant issues for you.)
  • Definitely enable “OpenMP Texture Decoder” on the newer MacBook Pro computers, as they have multiple CPU cores and this offers a huge performance boost.

How To Play Wii U Games On Mac

… After this, hit “OK”, and then go back to Dolphin's “Settings” menu, and choose the “DSP Settings” option:

• I enabled the “DSP LLE on Thread” option here, and haven't had any issues. (This is said to boost performance, and it worked well for me.)

… See how these work for you. 👍🏻

In the future, pay attention to specific titles' compatibilities in Dolphin's Wiki! Some games require certain settings for optimal appearance, but individual settings may actually hinder or enhance performance on particular computers or games. — Perhaps, find settings that work for one title, and then see which other games also agree with these settings for optimum playability and enjoyability?

Tip: Also, don't put your computer somewhere where it's poorly ventilated! Various materials or things can block its vents (such as carpets, blankets/bedsheets, papers on a desk, etc.), and will increase the computer's temperature and throttle performance. 🌬

Gameplay vs. visual glitches

Just a heads-up, because the games are being emulated using reverse-engineered code, you may encounter a glitch or two due to evolving algorithms and compatibility in the Dolphin software. 🐬

The only issue that I've encountered in “The Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword” so far is that certain climbable vines that are supposed to be shown on cliffs aren't visible, and instead it was only rendering shadows of them. 🌱 — The first time I ran into this, I luckily noticed the shadows and was able to keep playing… but without having noticed them, I'd have been stuck at that point in the game with no path forward. 😱

This glitch may in fact be solely caused by my specific system configuration and settings (mentioned above), but your results will most-likely vary between various computers and versions of the Dolphin software.

Tip: As mentioned, pay attention to specific titles' compatibilities in Dolphin's Wiki, and watch out for other issues like this. — The experience is not perfect, but it's not bad either!

Results

… It works! 😃 — I played “The Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword” entirely from start-to-finish:

… Here's the classic, unforgettable “treasure chest opening” sound and experience… and yes, “#zeldatreasurechest” was an actual hashtag on Vine before I posted this: 🤣

… Pretty cool!

Bonus: Play on a TV!

Since the latest MacBook Pro has a built-in HDMI output, why not hook it up to the TV and play there, instead? 😆

… You might even get better performance, since a 1080p TV is lower resolution than the latest 15-inch MacBook Pro's display panel! 👍🏻

If you want the game's sound to output through the HDMI port (to the TV) as well instead of your Mac's speakers or headphone output, press and hold “Option (⌥)” on your keyboard, click the “volume” icon in your Mac's menu bar, and then choose the TV from the menu that appears:

Wrapping up

So, now I have a working Wii setup on my Mac! 🎮

It suits my console gaming needs for the time being until the PlayStation 4 goes on sale this holiday season, and I'm definitely looking forward to purchasing some new games and consoles from Nintendo in the future, as well. 🤩